TEHRAN – When 24-year-old Taiwanese traveler Ariel Kang Chen Xuan went to bed in Isfahan, Iran on June 12, she never thought she was about to wake up in an all-out war.
According to a report from CNN, Kang explored the historic city, famous for its stunning Persian blue tildomes, during his two-week solo trip. That night, Israel launched a series of catastrophic airstrikes targeting Iran’s nuclear and military facilities, causing a fierce 12-day conflict across the country.
The next morning, Kang first heard about the strike through a related message from a friend online. But outside of Isfahan’s homestay life almost seemed normal. The store was open and the streets were not crowded, but we couldn’t throw it away.
While watching TV with her host family, the true gravity of the situation returned home until June 14th. “We were very shocked to see the missile attack,” Kang cited CNN on July 5th.
“The family said they had experienced a similar conflict last year and warned that the airport might be closed,” she added.
For Kang, who had traveled extensively since 2022, the sudden escalation was unsettling for Kang, who was funded by part-time jobs throughout college. “I was very helpless to hear about the attack first. I was there alone,” she said.
Obtaining an Iranian visa was a challenge in itself. Kang applied through an online agency and paid Visa $15 and an additional $134 upon entry. She found it difficult for Iran’s Tourism Infrastructure Limited and public transport to navigate without speaking Falsi.
“Traveling in Iran can be daunting,” she said. “However, the kindness of the locals helped me overcome my fears. You need strong nerves and courage to seek help.”
Relying on a homestay booked through Kang’s surfing website, Kang discovers that human connection is the cornerstone of her journey. Locals often approached her with warm gestures – using the translation app to tell her, “You are my guest.” “The warmth of these connections was an unforgettable experience,” she recalls.
Isfahan’s stunning architecture was Kang’s first draw. Once a hub of the major Silk Road, the city has several UNESCO World Heritage Sites, including the UNESCO-registered Masjed et James Mosque in Isfahan, famous for its Persian blue tiles. “I’m in love with the unique colour of Persian blue,” Kang said.
By June 14, Kang had abandoned plans to travel north as the road was blocked due to an escalation of tension. Instead, she played cards and cooked with her host family, sharing traditional Iranian cuisine with spicy Chinese hotpots.
The next morning, Kang took a bus to Tehran. Along the way, she was asked by police to wear a scarf during a security check. Approaching the capital, she saw black smoke rising – a horrifying sign of the extent of the conflict.
In Tehran, she jumped between bus stops and asked for transport to Tabris in the northwest. Despite the occasional distant gunshots and tense moments (including a woman screaming near the bus stop), the city seemed calm on the surface.
Language barriers have made it difficult to measure true mood. Still, Kang pointed out that his daily life continues, restaurants are open and people are working on their routines.
At 10pm, Kang boarded a bus to Tabriz but faced a 15-hour tough journey due to traffic and mass evacuation. “I was tired and hungry,” she said.
From Tabriz, she managed to take a bus to Mak and take a taxi to the Turkish border. Crossing over a turkey in the middle of the night, she endured a 22-hour trip to Istanbul before finally boarding a plane to Taiwan.
Looking back at her ordeal, Kang said, “I will never regret it. Despite fear and uncertainty, experience taught me about courage, kindness, and the unforgettable warmth of human connection.”
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